A Travel Memoir by Pritilata Ghosh
For many years, I carried a quiet wish in my heart—to visit Amarnath and have darshan of Baba Amarnath. That wish finally came true in 2012.
But the desire was not without fear.
Back in 1996, a devastating snowstorm had taken the lives of many Amarnath pilgrims. Several went missing, their bodies never found. Their families suffered endlessly—without death certificates, they received no support from offices or insurance companies like LIC. They were left helpless, abandoned by the system. That tragic memory had always held us back.
Yet, time heals fear.
One day, my companion expressed a strong desire to go, and somehow, all obstacles began to fade away.
🚆 The Journey Begins
On 26th June 2012, we boarded a train to Jammu Tawi. As the train moved forward, conversations began with fellow passengers—and we realized that most of them were heading for the same sacred journey.
We wore a special kind of outfit—six-pocket pants and shirts with multiple pockets. Seeing us, other travelers smiled and said, “You will definitely make it.” And perhaps, that blessing stayed with us throughout.
Among the passengers was a kind-hearted man, Sukesh Agarwal, who took care of us like family—watching over our food, water, and comfort as if we were his own. Even after ten years, we never lost touch. He still goes for the Amarnath Yatra every year.
🏨 Arrival at Jammu
Upon reaching Jammu, we checked into a hotel booked through J&K Tourism. After freshening up, we went to Bhagwati Nagar, from where buses leave for Pahalgam.
It is advisable to take the official Amarnath Shrine Board buses, as private vehicles often face unnecessary delays due to checking.
We got our tickets after a brief wait. Nearby, under makeshift tents, pilgrims were being served simple meals. I decided to eat there—rice, dal, vegetables, papad, and pickle. At first, my companion hesitated, but soon joined me.
That night, we arranged an auto to pick us up at 2 AM.
🌙 A Night of Anticipation
We woke up around 1 AM and waited near the hotel gate. A large mango tree stood before us, heavy with ripe fruit. In the stillness of the night, a young boy and a middle-aged man were throwing stones to pluck mangoes.
Our auto didn’t arrive on time. The boy offered to take us instead, and eventually, we agreed.
When we reached the bus stand, rows of buses were waiting. With tea and biscuits in hand, we prepared for the journey ahead.
🚌 Journey to Pahalgam
The bus started at 4:30 AM.
As we traveled, I couldn’t take my eyes off the view—rivers flowing beside us, fields stretching into the distance, and mountains rising beyond. Who could close their eyes amidst such beauty?
We reached Pahalgam by morning.
From there, a small vehicle took us to our tourist lodge. We were exhausted, yet filled with excitement. Along the way, a young boy helped us with our luggage and even gifted us a walking stick from Amarnath.
🚁 Struggles for Helicopter Tickets
That night, we worried about my companion’s knee pain. Perhaps taking a helicopter would be easier.
The next morning, chaos erupted—police and public clashed, and curfew was imposed. Fear gripped us again. But soon, things settled.
We tried tirelessly to arrange helicopter tickets—but failed. Even a kind bank manager from Jammu, whom we met there, tried to help us. But luck wasn’t on our side.
Maybe, this journey was meant to be completed on foot—or by faith.
🚙 A New Hope
That evening, we met a group of Bengali travelers. They welcomed us warmly and offered us a seat in their vehicle to Chandanwari. We gladly accepted.
At dawn, we began the next phase of our journey.
🐎 The Climb Begins
At Chandanwari, chaos and noise overwhelmed us. In the confusion, my companion couldn’t find his permit slip—only to realize later that it was with me!
Thanks to a quick announcement, he avoided standing in a long queue again. We hired a horse.
Initially, I had planned to walk—but we didn’t want to get separated. So, I too climbed onto a horse.
⛰️ Pissu Top & Beyond
The climb to Pissu Top was steep and terrifying. Riding a horse along narrow mountain paths felt like surrendering completely to fate.
I kept chanting Baba Amarnath’s name.
There was a moment when my companion was taking photos on the steep path—I got scared and took the camera away. From then on, I clicked pictures blindly, without even looking.
❄️ Sheshnag – A Glimpse of Heaven
We reached Sheshnag.
Floating sheets of ice drifted on the lake. Snow-covered peaks reflected in its still waters. It felt unreal—as if we had stepped into another world.
Standing there, I felt how small we humans are before nature.
Memories of the deadly snowstorm returned again.
🏔️ Mahaguna Pass – The Sacred Height
From Sheshnag, we continued towards Mahaguna Pass—at an altitude of 15,475 feet.
The landscape was surreal—mountains in different colors, patterns etched naturally on their faces.
According to belief, this is where Lord Shiva whispered the secret of immortality to Parvati. Lord Ganesha was left behind here while Shiva continued towards the cave.
The air felt different here—mysterious, sacred.
We wanted to pause and absorb the beauty, but our horse handlers urged us to move forward. “This is Mahaguna… destruction has happened here before,” they warned.
Looking down, we could see pilgrims returning far below.
And we continued—silently, humbly—towards the divine.
… to be continued.